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GReddy Intercooler Installation

Next, remove the cover to the pulley wheels where the throttle cable is terminated:
Cable Carousel 01.JPG (94080 bytes)
With the cover removed, you'll see that three cables converge on a tri-level pulley wheel:
Cable Carousel 02.JPG (75776 bytes)
The cable from the throttle pedal is (naturally) the bottommost cable. It needs to be removed to get it out of the way.

I always choose to loosen the lock nut with the most available threads showing, and leave the other one in place. That lets me loosen the cable fully without needing to readjust the amount of slack later.

Once the cable is removed, you can push it behind the turbo for now.

The brake booster line also needs to be removed. This is the line running along the top of the engine compartment just above the stock intercooler piping:
BrakeBooster-05.JPG (76545 bytes)
Loosen the hose clamp at the bulkhead (firewall) fitting...
BrakeBooster-00.JPG (186790 bytes)
...and also at the intake manifold:
Brake Booster 01.JPG (65419 bytes)
The line is clamped to the body with several 10mm nuts. Once they have been removed, you can set it aside. Make sure you cover the ends to prevent dirt from getting into the system, and tape over the exposed openings.
Now comes the tough part. My goal was to remove the stock intercooler without ruining it in the process. Unfortunately, Toyota engineers decided to integrate a bracket into the right engine mount, such that it stands ready to puncture the IC without hesitation:
Bracket-01.JPG (101379 bytes)
This bracket poses a danger to the IC core, so work around it carefully if you are trying to save the stock IC.
Remove the 12mm bolt attaching the upper IC mount:
Stock IC Mount 01.JPG (74108 bytes)
Now remove the two 10mm bolts that fasten the bracket to the intercooler.
There are two 12mm lower bolts to remove:
Stock IC Mount 02.JPG (84083 bytes)
Stock IC Mount 03.JPG (57693 bytes)
Remove these, but be careful, as the IC might want to slip out of its saddle when the last one is removed.

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