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GReddy Intercooler Installation

Now's the time to jack up the rear of the car and put it on jack stands, as the A/C compressor needs to be moved out of the way. Make sure the car is stable before getting under it.
You'll need to remove the plastic underbody, which is attached with several 10mm nuts and bolts. There are two bolts at the rearmost portion of the underbody near the wheel, as shown here:
Underbody 02.JPG (54722 bytes)
Once you've removed the underbody, place it aside out of the way.
There's a stiffening brace that is attached diagonally across the structure. There are two 14mm bolts securing it in place:
Frame Brace 01.JPG (103609 bytes)
Remove this brace and set aside.
Next, you'll need to detach the bracket that holds the A/C lines that lead to the compressor. This is a 10mm nut. This bracket also provides a mount for the underbody, so remember how it fits:
AC Hose Mount 01.JPG (65514 bytes)
There are two 12mm (?) bolts that secure the A/C compressor:
AC_Bolt-03.JPG (48510 bytes)
Remove both bolts and carefully lower the compressor the few inches you have available.
Here's where I needed a helper. He held onto the intercooler from above while I removed the lower IC bracket. Then, I carefully maneuvered the A/C compressor down and away (taking care not to stress the A/C lines), at the same time compressing the lower coolant hose, while he twisted the IC out of its cavity in the body, and out of the car.

Needless to say, I don't have any photos of this procedure.

I wasted a good two hours trying to do this on my own, all the while swearing at the engineer who left that bracket right in front of the intercooler.

At any rate, here's what the engine bay looks like once the stock IC is gone:
Stock IC Gone 01.JPG (82969 bytes)
You may have noticed that I never removed the brake booster line entirely, but I should have. It kept getting in the way.
Next, you should remove the shroud, or housing, that funnels air to the IC. There are three 10mm bolts. Two are relatively easy to reach...
Stock IC Shroud 01.JPG (45325 bytes)
Stock IC Shroud 02.JPG (62172 bytes)
While the bottom bolt is obscured by the housing:
Stock IC Shroud 03.JPG (73412 bytes)
Once the bolts are out, the housing comes out easily.
Once the housing was out, I took the opportunity to remove some of the rustproofing gunk that was everywhere on this car. Here's a shot of the opening prior to installing the new IC:
IC_Cavity-02.JPG (54933 bytes)
The first piece to install is the baffle plate. My instructions say that I should install three studs, but there were bolts in the package, not studs.

I installed the lower bolt loosely...
IC_Baffle-01.JPG (49977 bytes)
...then attached the foam tape:
IC_Baffle-02.JPG (61485 bytes)

Next, I lined up the new intercooler with the top bolt hole, and got that bolt threaded in a few turns. I was then able to remove the lower bolt, re-insert it through the intercooler mount, and thread it in a few turns. Finally, I got the last bolt started, and tightened them all up:
Install IC 02.JPG (102534 bytes)
Now I was faced with mounting the SPAL fan, which is a 7" "puller" model. I wanted to keep the fan slightly away from the surface of the IC, to help reduce the blockage caused by the SPAL's massive hub area. I figured an inch or so of distance would help quite a bit without causing the fan to get in the way of anything.

My plan was to fabricate some aluminum mounting brackets and space them out from the IC with rubber washers. The first step was to make some templates out of pressboard, which is strong enough to hold the weight of the fan as I measured and fine-tuned the shapes. Here's a photo of my first attempt:
Spal Fan 01.JPG (50213 bytes)
Since I was severely limited in what I could fabricate, I kept the design simple. All I had to cut these out of .100" aluminum sheet was a hand jig saw.

Once I had the design finalized, I cut out the brackets, smoothed the edges a bit on the grinding wheel, and mounted them to the fan.

I then attached the brackets to the IC mount points with 8mm x 40mm stainless bolts acting as studs. Here's a shot of the installed fan:
Spal Fan 03.JPG (108513 bytes)
The fan is mounted about 1" away from the face of the intercooler, which seems to provide adequate airflow around the hub of the fan. A custom-made duct would have been even better, but this was the compromise I chose, given the availability of time and money

I replaced the electrical connector on the fan with a special Molex piece that I found at McMaster-Carr. They call it a pin-and-socket connector, and you can get these with any number of pins for the circuits. I like them because they are strong (white nylon), keyed to avoid mis-matching the wires, and they hold together well, yet can be easily separated.  
Once the fan was in, I began reassembly. The A/C compressor needs to be reattached. However, do not tighten the mounting bolts yet. These need to remain loose until the idler pulley is also reattached. You can install the A/C hose clamp and tighten it to the body.
With the compressor in place, install the stiffening brace with its 14mm bolts, and torque them down.
Reposition the idler pulley, and loosely attach the "short" bolts. The long, lower bolt (under the coolant hose) goes through a collar on the A/C compressor. I ended up using my bench grinder to put a slight chamfer on the end of this bolt, as I was having a tough time getting it started into the block. It's totally blind. If you have tightened up the A/C compressor, your chances of getting this bolt started are very slight indeed.

Once all the bolts are started, I tightened them down, then backed them off to allow the bracket to be moved if necessary.

Back under the car, install the A/C drive belt. Torque down the bolts  on the A/C compressor. Reattach the underbody panel. You can lower the car at this point.
Install the engine hanger bracket. Once it is in place, torque down the idler pulley and engine hanger bolts.
Adjust the A/C drive belt tension to its designated setting. Tighten the idler pulley lock bolt to the designated torque.
Reinstall the brake booster line.
Reinstall the throttle cable, and tighten the adjusting nut. Replace the cover to the cable pulley.

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