23 June, 2005
|Next I had to deal with the oil pressure
sending unit for the Auto Meter gauge. It's much larger than the stock unit:
I'd quickly determined that there was no way the new sender was going to fit in
the stock location. I planned on mounting it remotely, which in turn would
require running a hose from the cylinder head to the sender. I decided to clamp it to a small
bracket, then bolt it to an unused cylinder head mounting hole.
The bracket was a simple "L" design, made of 1" wide x ⅛" thick aluminum stock:
The bent corner should keep it from slipping out of position.
|I mounted the clamp onto the head:
|I wrapped some scrap hose around the sensor to
reduce the vibration, then used a hose clamp to secure it into
|I couldn't find hose ends
for the ⅛"-NPT male fitting on the sending unit.
Earl's makes both
straight and 90║ adapters in steel for this purpose, called Gauge Head Adapters.
They convert the ⅛"-NPT male
fitting on the sender to a male flare fitting for a standard -4 AN
female hose end.
|The only -4 AN swivel hose ends I've been able to find are from
Earl's and Aeroquip only offer a non-swivel version in that size.
|I tried several different hose
configurations, and here's what I ended up with:
I used a 45║ adapter at the head. This is an aluminum fitting that has ⅛"-NPT male and a -4AN male end. To this I attached a -4AN hose end:
The other end was more complicated, as I had to allow for the bend radius of the hose and also keep it out of the way of the connector to the IACV valve. I used a 90║ steel gauge adapter on the sending unit, then a 90║ -4AN hose end on the hose:
fuel pressure sender is similar to the oil pressure sender:
It also uses a ⅛"-NPT male fitting on the sending unit, so another gauge head adapter is required:
|I mounted the sending unit with a cushion
clamp to the rear bulkhead, next to the APR. I then used a 90║ adapter
that converts a ⅛"-NPT male end to a -4AN male end. On the sending unit, I
used a straight gauge head adapter. A length of -4AN stainless hose with
straight swivel hose ends finishes the job:
|Another component that's found a home is the
MAP sensor for the TEC│. I chose to mount it next to the DFUs, on the
|The AVCR electronic boost controller uses a
solenoid to control the wastegate:
From previous experience, I know that it needs to be isolated from direct metal-to-metal contact, as it is extremely noisy in operation. It also needs to be mounted fairly close to the wastegate, yet away from extreme heat.
|I wanted to tuck it up where the cruise
control drum was formerly located. That required changing the hose barbs from
straight to 90║. Of course, to keep things interesting, Apexi uses BSP pipe threads. To get around this, I re-tapped the
⅛"-BSP threads in the solenoid body to ⅛"-NPT by just running a tap
through the existing threads, and installed the hose barbs:
|A simple plate serves as the bracket:
|I used the same sorbothane pad as I had in
my previous car,
with nylon screws and nuts. The sorbothane deadens nearly all vibrations,
and the nylon prevents any vibrations from traveling down the bolt shaft:
|A single bolt holds it in position:
If it's still too noisy, I can insert a rubber washer between the bracket and the body mount.
|The AVCR also uses a small manifold pressure
sensor. I decided to mount it just below the solenoid, where a mounting
hole already existed:
|One disadvantage of running the
turbo-to-intercooler piping under the engine was the lack of a mounting
location for the TurboXS blow-off valve. It should be right off the
piping, but I decided to mount it clamped to the fuel filler pipe, up next to the air filter.
I would need to run a hose to it.
I also didn't want to vent it to atmosphere, as I didn't like the noise (some love it). I'd provided a nipple on the main intake pipe to handle the exhaust air from the valve.
First, I wrapped some silicone hose around the fuel filler pipe as a cushion:
|I replaced the intake pipe nipple on the BOV with a
straight section of 1╝" aluminum tubing. The stock nipple increased the OD
of the nipple to 1⅜" without any increase to the ID, so this didn't affect
I cut the hose to length connected it to the BOV inlet.
|With the general fitment settled, I clamped
the BOV to the filler pipe:
|I hadn't been able to work out the hose
routing back into the intake until the BOV was installed. The 1╝" silicone
heater hose was very stiff, with a large bending radius, so I couldn't
just bend it into position without collapsing the hose. And 1╝" is a bit
of an oddball size. Elbows for this size were scarce.
I ended up using a couple of silicone elbows, one 45║ and one 90║, connected with a short section of aluminum tube. It's not subtle, but it will have to do, at least for now:
I may come up with a cleaner solution later.