Last Updated
23 June, 2005
 

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UNDER CONSTRUCTION

Installing the 3SGTE
 

  Next I had to deal with the oil pressure sending unit for the Auto Meter gauge. It's much larger than the stock unit:
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  During the rebuild, I'd quickly determined that there was no way the new sender was going to fit in the stock location. I planned on mounting it remotely, which in turn would require running a hose from the cylinder head to the sender. I decided to clamp it to a small bracket, then bolt it to an unused cylinder head mounting hole.

The bracket was a simple "L" design, made of 1" wide x ⅛" thick aluminum stock:
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The bent corner should keep it from slipping out of position.
 
 
  I mounted the clamp onto the head:
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  I wrapped some scrap hose around the sensor to reduce the vibration, then used a hose clamp to secure it into position:
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  I couldn't find hose ends for the ⅛"-NPT male fitting on the sending unit. Earl's makes both straight and 90║ adapters in steel for this purpose, called Gauge Head Adapters. They convert the ⅛"-NPT male fitting on the sender to a male flare fitting for a standard -4 AN female hose end.
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  The only -4 AN swivel hose ends I've been able to find are from Jeg's:
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Earl's and Aeroquip only offer a non-swivel version in that size.
 
 
  I tried several different hose configurations, and here's what I ended up with:
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I used a 45║ adapter at the head. This is an aluminum fitting that has ⅛"-NPT male and a -4AN male end. To this I attached a -4AN hose end:
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The other end was more complicated, as I had to allow for the bend radius of the hose and also keep it out of the way of the connector to the IACV valve. I used a 90║ steel gauge adapter on the sending unit, then a 90║ -4AN hose end on the hose:
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  The fuel pressure sender is similar to the oil pressure sender:
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It also uses a  ⅛"-NPT male fitting on the sending unit, so another gauge head adapter is required:
 
 
  I mounted the sending unit with a cushion clamp to the rear bulkhead, next to the APR. I then used a 90║ adapter that converts a ⅛"-NPT male end to a -4AN male end. On the sending unit, I used a straight gauge head adapter. A length of -4AN stainless hose with straight swivel hose ends finishes the job:
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  Another component that's found a home is the MAP sensor for the TEC│. I chose to mount it next to the DFUs, on the trunk bulkhead:
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  The AVCR electronic boost controller uses a solenoid to control the wastegate:
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From previous experience, I know that it needs to be isolated from direct metal-to-metal contact, as it is extremely noisy in operation. It also needs to be mounted fairly close to the wastegate, yet away from extreme heat.
 
 
  I wanted to tuck it up where the cruise control drum was formerly located. That required changing the hose barbs from straight to 90║. Of course, to keep things interesting, Apexi uses BSP pipe threads. To get around this, I re-tapped the ⅛"-BSP threads in the solenoid body to ⅛"-NPT by just running a tap through the existing threads, and installed the hose barbs:
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  A simple plate serves as the bracket:
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  I used the same sorbothane pad as I had in my previous car, with nylon screws and nuts. The sorbothane deadens nearly all vibrations, and the nylon prevents any vibrations from traveling down the bolt shaft:
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  A single bolt holds it in position:
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If it's still too noisy, I can insert a rubber washer between the bracket and the body mount.
 
 
  The AVCR also uses a small manifold pressure sensor. I decided to mount it just below the solenoid, where a mounting hole already existed:
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  One disadvantage of running the turbo-to-intercooler piping under the engine was the lack of a mounting location for the TurboXS blow-off valve. It should be right off the piping, but I decided to mount it clamped to the fuel filler pipe, up next to the air filter. I would need to run a hose to it.

I also didn't want to vent it to atmosphere, as I didn't like the noise (some love it). I'd provided a nipple on the main intake pipe to handle the exhaust air from the valve.

First, I wrapped some silicone hose around the fuel filler pipe as a cushion:
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  I replaced the intake pipe nipple on the BOV with a straight section of 1╝" aluminum tubing. The stock nipple increased the OD of the nipple to 1⅜" without any increase to the ID, so this didn't affect anything.

I cut the hose to length connected it to the BOV inlet.
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  With the general fitment settled, I clamped the BOV to the filler pipe:
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  I hadn't been able to work out the hose routing back into the intake until the BOV was installed. The 1╝" silicone heater hose was very stiff, with a large bending radius, so I couldn't just bend it into position without collapsing the hose. And 1╝" is a bit of an oddball size. Elbows for this size were scarce.

I ended up using a couple of silicone elbows, one 45║ and one 90║, connected with a short section of aluminum tube. It's not subtle, but it will have to do, at least for now:
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I may come up with a cleaner solution later.
 
 
 

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