Last Updated
23 June, 2005
 

      Back to Start                Page      1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10    


UNDER CONSTRUCTION

Installing the 3SGTE
 
  At this point, I could start running some of the vacuum hose.

First, I needed a short run from the intake manifold to the MAP sensor:
Click to enlarge
I was using polypropylene cable ties as hose clamps. These ties are rated to 215º F.
 		  
  It was getting pretty crowded in the right corner of the engine bay, so I plugged the hole for the stock brake booster nipple...
Click to enlarge
...attached a length of silicone hose to the brake booster pipe...
Click to enlarge
...and ran it back to an unused hose nipple on the back of the intake manifold:
Click to enlarge
 		  
  I'd previously installed a couple of ¼" hose barbs into the throttle body intake, one for the wastegate and one for the BOV. From the right-hand barb, I ran a length of silicone hose to the COM port of the AVCR solenoid:
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
I teed off this line to the side port of the Tial wastegate. I also ran a hose from the top port of the wastegate to the NO port of the solenoid:
Click to enlarge
I used stainless hose clamps on the wastegate, due to the higher temperatures.
 		  
  I ran a smaller vacuum hose from the intake manifold to the throttle stop diaphragm. I teed off this to run a hose to the port on the adjustable fuel pressure regulator (APR):
Click to enlarge
 		  
  I ran a length of hose from the intake manifold to the AVCR pressure sensor. Later, I'll tee into this line for the boost gauge hose:
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
 		  
  Finally, I ran a hose from the hose barb on the left side of the throttle body to the area where I mounted the BOV:
Click to enlarge
I'll cut it to length once I've finalized its path.
 		  
  Before I reinstalled the rear axles and suspension, I wanted to wire up the alternator and knock sensor, as they were very accessible now:
Click to enlarge
 		  
  First, I cleaned off the main power cable's ring terminal with a wire brush, then attached it to the alternator stud:
Click to enlarge
 		  
  Next, I attached the alternator connector plug to the socket:
Click to enlarge
Make sure to press the plug in tight.
 		  
  I attached the knock sensor lead to the sensor, and bundled the wiring up within the alternator wire wrap:
Click to enlarge
 		  
  Next, I connected the two starter wires. One attaches to the same stud as the heavy primary power lead, and the other to a special connector. I tightened down the primary cable nut, then installed the insulating cover:
Click to enlarge
 		  
  I slid some cable sheathing on the speed sensor wires for protection, then attached the connector to the socket on the transmission:
Click to enlarge
 		  
  I did the same for the backup light switch wiring:
Click to enlarge
 		  
  I discovered previously as I disassembled the engine harness that the wires were intertwined, and you could not untangle the various circuit wiring without detaching the pins from the OEM socket connectors. The OEM connectors are not really designed to be disassembled, as aftermarket connectors are. As a result, there's a spaghetti of wires where they all intertwine, right near the fuse box. Even with the reduced wiring in my harness, this was a mess.

Once I had routed most of the circuits from the OEM harness, I wrapped some addition cable sheathing around the wires at the junction where they intersect, hoping I wouldn't need to rip it back apart in the near future (the triumph of optimism over experience):
Click to enlarge
I will need to splice into the harness, but hopefully I can do that inside the trunk.
 		  
 

Continued on next page...

  

      Back to Start                Page      1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10