Removing the 3SGTE

	Last Updated 12 November, 2004
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	Removing the 3SGTE (continued)

	Turn your attention to the swarm of electrical components in the left-rear of the compartment. Mounted on the rear firewall is a bracket that secures the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump resistor pack, the solenoid (fuel injector) resistor pack, and the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV): You only need to detach the connectors to the fuel pump resistor pack and the fuel pump relay, circled in yellow below: Remove the two 10mm bolts that secure the bracket to the rear firewall, and lay the components on the cylinder head.
	On the bottom of the IACV, there are two vacuum hoses: There is not much slack in the hoses, so trace the hose that leads to the back of the intake manifold: Loosen the clamp on the intake manifold nipple, and slide the hose off. This will give you enough slack to move the IACV out of harm's way. This is safer than trying to remove the hose from the plastic housing of the IACV. It's a pricey part to replace if you damage it.
	Open the trunk and remove the liner to expose the ECU and its associated components:
	At the bottom of the ECU are three gray connectors: Remove the middle and left-side connectors by pressing in on the locking tab and gently pulling the plugs free. Because there are so many contacts, you'll need to wiggle the connector slightly while pulling. Leave the right-side connector attached.
	To the left of the ECU is a white harness connector that joins the ECU wiring harness to another wiring harness: Detach the connector by pressing in on the locking tab, the pulling the connector apart. Slide the captive end of the connector out of its holder:
	To the right of the ECU is the intercooler fan ECU: The locking tab is on the back of the connector between the firewall and the ECU. Detach the connector by pressing in on the locking tab and wiggling the plug out.
	The starter relay is located just above the I/C ECU: Detach the connector by prying the locking tab out away from the housing and pulling the plug free.
	There's a cable clamp that needs to be removed as well. You need to pry it apart with a small screwdriver, but it's a real gem of design. I can't really describe how to release it, but you'll eventually figure it out.
	Here's the ECU harness ready to be pushed through the firewall: There's a large rubber grommet that seals the hole in the firewall: Pry the lip of the grommet in towards the hole, and it will pop through. Then you can push the harness through. Be careful, as the lip of the hole has a sharp edge: And here's the result from the engine bay:
	In the center of the distributor cap is the hi-tension lead to the ignition coil: Detach the connector from the cap by prying the locking tab out away from the cap, and pulling on the connector (not the wire). You will probably need to wiggle the connector a bit to free it:
	In the left-rear corner of the engine bay is the fuse box: Remove the top cover by pressing in the two locking tabs and lifting off (this one is easy!): Detach the two white harness connectors by pressing the locking tab in towards the housing, then pulling the connector free.
	The main power cables are attached with two 10mm nuts. Carefully pull the red rubber boot away from the studs, remove the nuts, and detach the top cable assembly from the studs. The case of the fuse box has a locking tab that secures the metal tab on the cable end. Pry out, away from the cable, and the metal tab should spring free, enabling you to remove the cable from the studs:
	The fuse box is actually made up of several pieces -- the top cover, the middle body, the bottom cover, and a harness retainer. You need to separate all of these pieces. First, detach the box from the car body. Remove the 10mm bolt on the right side of the fuse box that secures the box to the rear firewall: On the other side of the fuse box, you'll need to remove the long 10mm bolt that secures the box to a mounting bracket. Then loosen the 10mm nut that is attached to the coolant reservoir, and rotate the rubber cushion up and away from the fuse box: There's also a mounting bracket on the strut tower: Pry the locking tab away from the body of the fuse box far enough to release it, then slide the fuse box up and off the bracket: You'll note that with the fuse box free of the car body you've only gained a little slack, and there is not much freedom to move it around.
	The bottom cover is held on with four locking tabs: Pry the locking tabs away from the body of the fuse box to release them. The bottom cover needs to be pushed away from the body of the fuse box -- it won't simply drop off.
	The wiring harness that comes up through the left (engine) side of the fuse box must be detached from the box. The harness is taped to a mounting sleeve that slides down into the side of the fuse box, so removing it means sliding it back up and away from the box. Unfortunately, this is made more difficult by the position of the locking tabs, which Toyota engineers placed under the box. There are two tabs, one on each side of the sliding sleeve, and they must be pried away from the sleeve. Basically, you are working blind. I found that if I maintained upward pressure on the harness while trying to release the locking tabs, I was able to free one side, then the other. I pulled the harness up... ...and the sleeve came free:
	With the harness free, the bottom cover can be pushed down and away from the body of the fuse box. All that remains is to detach a cable clamp from the inside of the cover, as shown below: Just squeeze the locking tabs together and push the clamp through the cover. The cover can now be removed. At this point, it makes sense to secure all of the loose components to either the motor or the body, to prevent them from get tangled when the motor is lowered out of the car. I used some long cable ties, but anything that is easy to secure would work fine.
	Continued on next page...

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Removing the 3SGTE (continued)