12 November, 2004
Detach the intercooler fan connector:
The locking tab must be pried up and away from the housing, then the connector can be separated.
Detach the A/C compressor clutch connector:
Press the locking tab in, against the housing, then pull to separate the connector.
Don't you sometimes wonder why Toyota chose to use a different connector design for virtually every connector in the engine compartment?
Slide the lower half of the connector out of the mounting plate, as the other end is attached to the A/C compressor:
|Here's a tricky one. The idler pulley nut
needs to be loosened, and it's nearly inaccessible:
I recommend cutting a piece of pressboard and placing it in front of the intercooler to avoid damage to both the cooling fins and your knuckles.
You can just barely fit a 14mm offset box wrench onto the nut. Carefully loosen the nut just enough so it turns easily.
The drive belt tension is adjusted by turning the 14mm bolt shown below:
Loosen the bolt until the drive belt is completely slack.
Once the tension has been relieved, remove the drive belt from the idler
Remove the tension adjusting bolt (it's quite long), and remove the nut
on the idler pulley. Remove the pulley and the bolt it rides on.
There's more fun ahead!
The upper mounting bolt for the A/C compressor is just barely
While it might be easier to reach this bolt with the coolant hose removed, it's probably better to do it now with the vehicle at ground level. A 12mm socket on a short extension will do the job:
The idler pulley bracket need to be removed, but not because of anything
related to the drive belts.
While the upper A/C compressor mounting bolt was removed in the previous step, there's another problem. One leg of the idler pulley bracket fits in front of the upper A/C compressor mounting boss. Here's a photo from later in the removal process that shows the blockage:
So even with the mounting bolt removed, the compressor cannot be removed until the idler puller bracket is removed first.
For now, just remove the 12mm bolt that secures the top leg of the idler pulley bracket. It's the one shown in the photo below.
There's one more bolt, but don't think it can be removed from the top of the motor, so we'll take care of it when we remove the A/C compressor later on.
|The brake booster hose attaches to the
intake manifold, and in the same area is a ground wire connector, as shown
in the yellow circle below:
Note that my ground wire is broken, but it should go to the cylinder head. You'll need to separate the connector. You'll also need to remove the brake booster hose:
|In the right-rear corner of the engine
compartment is the cruise control module. On my car, I had already removed
this, so the ABS connector was easy to locate. You might need to detach
the cruise control module to gain access to the ABS connector. If you
here, it will take you to a previous How-To page that describes the
The right-rear ABS sensor connector is attached to the wheel housing:
Separate the connector by pressing the locking tab in, against the housing, and then pulling the connector apart.
You'll also need to detach the mounting tab from the body, as the wire needs to be pulled through the opening in the wheel housing. However, that is much easier to do when the car is raised and the wheels are removed, so we'll deal with that later.
Moving to the rear firewall, there's a bracket that holds the turbo pressure
(MAP) sensor as well as the data link (diagnostics) port:
The cable to the MAP sensor should be anchored to the release latch, but mine had been detached. Here's a shot from my previous MR2:
Detach the cable from the latch assembly.
There's a single 10mm bolt securing the bracket. Remove the bolt, move the bracket out of the way, then reattach the bolt and the ground wire to the firewall:
I laid the MAP sensor and data link port on top of the cam cover:
On the left side of the engine bay is the charcoal canister. Remove the
small hose shown in the photo below:
You can also choose to remove the canister to provide a little more access to the engine mount, but it's not absolutely necessary.
Detach the left rear ABS sensor connector:
As on the right side, press the locking tab in, against the housing, and then pull the connector apart:
Using needle-nose pliers, squeeze the locking tabs together from the back side of the mounting bracket, and release the connector from the bracket: