Removing the 3S-GTE Radiator

	Last Updated 06 November, 2004
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	UNDER CONSTRUCTION Removing the 3SGTE Radiator

	As part of my engine replacement, I removed my radiator to have it checked out, cleaned, etc. Since the coolant had already been drained from the motor, it seemed a good time to do this. With the upgrades on the new motor, the cooling systems needed to perform at its best.
	As with most mechanical tasks on the MR2, space is extremely tight. And Toyota engineers built the car to be assembled, not disassembled. But I guess things could have been worse. Get the car up on jack stands. You'll need space to work, and the radiator is about 16" high, and it comes out the bottom.
	If your goal is to completely drain the cooling system, including the engine block, then you'll need to follow the BGB's reference to draining the engine block. Since I was replacing motors, draining the block was an afterthought. The process to drain the coolant tubes is described here, as part of the engine removal process. Again, if your goal is simply to remove the radiator, this is not absolutely necessary, but recommended. Open the front hood, and remove the plastic cover panel. In theory, this is removed by unscrewing the plastic Phillips-head fasteners that secure the panel to the body. Even on my car, which has lived its entire life in San Diego and Las Vegas, this was impossible. Another fastener challenge by the Toyota engineers. I ended up ripping all the fasteners out by force. Perhaps there is a trick to this, but I simply ordered replacements from Toyota, at about 50¢ each. (Photos go here)
	With the cover panel removed, you can see the top of the radiator: In fact, there are actually two cooling cores here. The A/C condenser sits in front of the radiator, so that's actually what you see when looking through the grill.
	Underneath each of the two upper radiator supports sits a gray fan connector:
	The connectors are mounted to metal flanges, which makes them pretty inaccessible. If you slide the connector off the flange, it's much easier to work with. With a small flat-bladed screwdriver, pry up the small locking tab on the connector, as shown below: While the tab is pried up, slide the connector off the flange.
	Now you can pull the connector into open view. Press in on the locking tab, pressing it against the housing, to unlock the connector:
	You can then separate the connector: Repeat with the other fan connector.
	Now you'll need to get under the car. There's a plastic under tray at the front of the car. It looks like a single panel, but it's actually two separate pieces, held together with a fragile fastener. Keep this in mind as you handle it: There is a total of 11 bolts securing this tray. Four of them are hex-head sheet metal screws, and the rest are hex-head machine screws. All of them have 10mm heads. Remove the bolts, taking care to keep the tray supported until all of the bolts are free, otherwise you are likely to cause some damage.
	With the under tray clear, you have easy access to the drain valve: Stick a length of hose on the nipple, and drain the remaining coolant out. Then close the valve and remove the hose.
	There are two fan mounting bolts near the upper radiator supports, as shown below: Remove both 12mm bolts.
	Back under the car, there are two 12mm bolts securing each of the fans: As you remove each pair of bolts, ease the fan assembly down, being careful not to damage the fins on the radiator.
	Here's a shot of the radiator with the fans out of the way:




















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UNDER CONSTRUCTION Removing the 3SGTE Radiator

UNDER CONSTRUCTION

Removing the 3SGTE Radiator